La Danse des Balrogs

La Danse des Balrogs, put up in 1992 by Fred Nicole as world’s first 8B boulder problem. My biggest obsession of the past years. I’ve never put so much effort and heart into a problem. So many days alone under this boulder, so many doubts. So many beautiful sunsets and quiet hours listening to the birds there.
I got quite close in November 2015, returning home very disappointed. But this ‘failure’ really ignited a passion in me, which I kind of forgot I had since starting a software developer career in 2013. Working fulltime really drained me at first. After feeling this obsession again, I felt that I definitely need both worlds. After a long rehab phase after my knee injury in 2016, I did several small trips in 2017, made a bit of progress, but never reached my highpoint from 2015. Maybe because I was doubting myself so much… Such a big drive (>700km) for just a few days, a long weekend… Again alone under this boulder… Often at first struggling to even do the moves.
Fast forward to February 2018. Again a solo trip, again some doubts (about the weather mostly). But maybe the last 6 month have changed my motivation for climbing for the better. I care less about the result and more for the joy I get from it. Happiness is the goal, not happiness by sending.
Weather forecast looked sketchy, first rain, later very cold. I had already settled for driving straight to Ticino, when Andi called me and convinced me to go for ‘just 2 days’ to the Valais first. I arrived in the morning, only to find the whole boulder wet from the rain the day before. Should I just leave? No. I would be happy to just try. After a few hours enjoying the sunshine I could try most of the moves. They actually felt really good! The next day I on my 3rd try the first crux moves felt perfect. When hitting the gaston, I felt strong enough to just impatiently get my left foot up anyhow….After that I can’t really remember. Full-on autopilot mode, even though a did the upper moves only once this trip. Crazy what muscle memory can do.

A big thanks to Anne, Reto and Valerie for the great time and incredible hospitality on many trips!

A note on the grade:
La Danse des Balrogs was put up in 1992 by Fred Nicole as world’s first 8B boulder problem. Later some repeaters called it 8A+ though it turned out many of them climbed a variation which avoids the hardest moves. The locals still call the original version 8B. I really can’t say what I think how hard it is. It felt sooo hard for so long and kinda not that bad when I did it. So in summary: Do I think its the hardest boulder I’ve done? Yes. Can I put a distinct number on it? No. Do I care what number someone else puts on it? No 🙂

Pictures: My trusty tripod;)


Fall/winter 2015

After weeks and weeks with 35°C I could not wait for cooler temperatures! Just as these arrived, I found a red circle on my knee, where a tick had bitten me a while ago. Blood tests confirmed lyme disease and so I had to take antibiotics for a months and take it easy.

To get back in shape, we went on a couple little trips to the alps. Granite climbing is what helps me the most with body tension and pure power… And carrying a Mondo plus a normal-sized pad up and down the hills of Magic Wood for sure helps as well for overall fitness ;-p

More rainy than sunny days meant playing around on the Bruno boulder was often the best (or sometimes only) option. It was really fun to catch up with old friends like Thomasina and Cedar and try and climb various problems together… Like Supersupernova (8A) or Minisex (7C).

After more weeks of work work work work, I did a little solo trip to try to finish an old project of mine. I got pretty close but failed…I was rather disappointed when I came home empty-handed, but with some days gone by I really wouldn’t wanna miss this experience. Focusing on only this one problem, obsessing about it, dreaming of it… This really ignited a passion in me, which I kind of forgot I had. I worked full time for the last years and put a lot of heart and time into that.. Which is fine, as it’s fun and I learned so much! But I still need to get better in balancing these two worlds I live in. Because now that I felt that passion again, I really know I need both worlds. So I was really excited for the new year…

A big thanks to Anne, Reto and Valerie for the great time and incredible hospitality!