After some weeks at university, I had some time for a little trip to the Alps before the next semester starts. We decided to go to Magic Wood/Avers. This used to be one of my favourite areas, but the last years there was either to much snow (in the spring semester break) or it was too crowded (in summer), so we never went. The last time I was there I did ‘Schneesturm’, a nice crimpy line on the Pura Vida Boulder. I really liked this block, the style fits me well and its in a pretty surrounding a bit secluded from the main sectors.
So I was really keen to try ‘Pura Vida’ this time. I quickly found a good solution, as none of the individual moves are really hard. Still it took a bit of time and tape, as I had to wait patiently to grow some skin for the sharp pocket at the end of the problem (3 weeks in the laboratory at university may be good for the motivation, but leave you with a baby’s botttom-like skin). When I did it, it went surprisingly controlled (power endurance is not my forte at all!). I’m really happy to have done this line, as I wanted to try this for such a long time!
Apart from one cold front the weather was quite nice for this time of the year and you could enjoy the sun and jump into the freezing river. I even got a tan (usually I return from bouldering holidays looking pale like I spent my time crawling around in dark caves… wonder why…haha):)
As the weather got more unstable at the end of april, we went to a (for us) new area, the Zillertal in Austria. We spent two nice days there, before the rain chaised us away. Now I’m back in the beautiful Frankenjura: time to get on a rope again! Really looking forward to try some of the super-classic routes here…and to the beer and schnitzel afterwards…:)
someone seemed to had a bad time at NBL, as he/she smashed a full bottle of liquid chalk against a rock, resulting in white stains everywhere within a 10m radius. worst thing: he/she didn’t even bother to take the broken plastic bottle! note: picture was taken after a full day of rain and me trying to brush off the stains…
Two great weeks in the mecca of all bouldering areas, Fontainebleau! (Almost) perfect weather, good friends and lots of ‘baguette et fromage’ helped us making our way up some classics. Or was it the always motivating musical support of ‘Radio Fun’?
I managed to do the quite powerful ‘Sale gosse assis’ and ‘Fata morgana’, as well as some easier stuff like ‘Rencard’ and ‘Le mur des lamentations’. My undisputable highlight however was ‘Duel’: This very classic slab at Franchard Cuisiniere always was on top of my wishlist, though I never even dared trying it. This time I was convinced going there by a friend who was trying it. It took me 20 minutes to figure out how to get of the ground as I can’t reach both ‘normal’ starting holds at the same time! Still I was happy and keen to keep trying. I found a method, which didn’t involve crimping the tiny ‘grattons’ with your fingernails (which most people to, but I was scared of this). Two days later I found myself holding the crux move (to the left edge) and fumbling the sloper just below the lip. This hold is actually quite good, but due to my slightly numb fingers I couldn’t find the good spot on the hold. I stared at the lip just in front of me, decided to simply take the sloper anywhere and went with everything I had to the lip! Et voilà, I was standing on top of this beautiful boulder!
Andi, who had amongst others already done ‘The Dagger’ in Ticino two weeks before, had a purple patch by doing pretty much all his old projects he had left from earlier trips: ‘Amok’, ‘Elephunk’, ‘la Totalité de l’autre toit’ and ‘Total Eclipse’. On the last day he climbed ‘Karma’ in a couple of tries and couldn’t believe it!
The ‘problem’ in fontainebleau is that for each boulder you do, you wanna try three other ones… Which means we now have plenty of new dreams & goals and can’t wait for the next trip there:)
There is not a lot to tell about the last winter… A good deal of stress at university and horrible weather, so I barely climbed outside. Over New Years Holiday, we went to Ticino for a quick escape from arctic Germany. Driving through the Gotthardo-Tunnel felt like someone had invented colours again: After not having seen the sun for 6 weeks, it was very nice to see the blue sky again! Even the brown and green hills of Ticino looked quite bright compared to the very limited range of colours of white (snow), grey (old snow, Nebel, rain) and black (wet streets, wet trees,…) back home.
I tried many things and didn’t really send anything besides Fantoman, which is my 100th (or 101th?) 7C (and harder). Here is a video a friend made.
Last summer was the first time during my studies that I had a 6 weeks long semester break! So I wanted to do something special and in the end we decided for a trip to Cederberg Mountains (aka Rocklands) in South Africa. The longest lasting impressions of this trip: the colours! Everything ist so colourful and bright, you just have to be happy there! Plus, you can have ‘real holiday’ (aka not freezing your ass off every night) AND good conditions for climbing. It also was my first time travelling alone (the last 4 weeks): A quite interesting experience, you meet so many new people. It also was good for my french;) I found some nice projects, but mostly did tons of moderates as its not easy to work on a project if you are travelling alone. I had a great time and definitely wanna come back!
South Africa, 2010 Vodpod videos no longer available.
some pics from my trip through the USA in 2009/10:
visited bouldering areas: >10
boulder problems 7A and up: 91
routes: 0 (we didn’t even bring a rope) 🙂
temperatures: subzero every night
result: dreams about my bed at home, 1 healthy ankle less, so many new friends!
some pictures: US Trip 2009/10 part 1 Vodpod videos no longer available.